The untold stories behind Beneath the Mediterranean Sky
Updated: 4 days ago
Some of my writings come from personal travel experiences I've had over the years. Although mostly fictionalized tales, I've included some characters and events based on my real life experiences. Many of which, however, haven't made it to the page. Here, I'll share with you some of the places, events, and people behind my creativity, starting with my visit to the Amalfi Coast of Italy during the summer of 2023.
I gathered a small group of adventurous women and we joined a walking tour of the Amalfi Coast. While we seven were excited for the walks and exploring less traveled areas of the Amalfi Coast, some of us having previously been multiple times and ready for a new perspective, unfortunately the other group we were joined with had failed to familiarize themselves with the itinerary and preferred to go shopping and do the touristy things. Because we needed a majority to participate on the scheduled walks and more rigorous hikes, we found ourselves on our own at times as we had to make our own arrangements for certain hikes and visits that, although listed on our itinerary, would not be fulfilled due to the group's dynamics.
Our first challenge was to find a guide to lead us on The Path of the Gods hike along the mountain cliffs above Positano and Praiano. Because this was our first night of the trip and the hike was in the next two days, I spent my first night in Italy online, researching hike and guide options to find the best one that suited my small group. I found one that would pick us up and drop us off just two blocks from our hotel in Sorrento. They came highly recommended and were affordable, so I made the choice to sign my group up. We set out on a sunny morning with our hats, sunscreen, and water bottles.
The bus took us up the mountain to Bomerano, a picturesque little mountaintop village where our hike would begin. We gathered in a small piazza for an orientation, then had fifteen minutes for espresso and bathroom breaks. Why did I toss back an espresso right before such a rigorous hike? I guess because I was in Italy, and it's the thing you do. Not being a frequent espresso shot guzzler, my heart was racing when we set out. After mastering a brief incline, we stopped at a hut to pick up our walking sticks, something I had never used before and felt quite awkward trying to figure out how to use effectively and look natural at the same time. I fear I failed miserably. I'm sure I was quite the sight.
The beginning of the hours long hike went smoothly, up and down the rocky trail, stopping ever so briefly to take in the sights now and then. I felt like the guide was on a mission to finish the course in world record time. I remember just wanting to slow down to see everything, to feel and smell everything up there high above the sea. I felt constantly rushed and found myself always trying to catch up with the group after having stopped to look at the view, or take a photo. There were some very kind, but long-legged Australians in the group and my little 5'5" stature would struggle to keep up with them on flat pavement, let alone the rocky dirt, boulder ridden hills we were traversing. But the sights were glorious!
The guide told us stories of pirates and sirens, and pointed out some flora and fauna along the way, which I could hear when I managed to get close enough to her. I'm sure I missed most of her commentary. This was not the Path of the Gods hike I have watched on several YouTube videos, this was an offshoot, one that required a guide to find the path at times. Had I chosen wisely? I asked myself that frequently as we climbed up boulders and literally slid down narrow dirt paths. Not at all what my research had shown me as The Path of the Gods. Happily, everyone in my little group was happy and thrilled to be there. The vistas were otherworldly. Positano glistening far below as it reached out to the sea, ships passing as they left long white trails in their wakes.
Then we were climbing in full earnest, and I was feeling a bit anxious about my own skills and endurance. What had I signed up for?
Two thirds of the way into the hike, my legs became noodles and I had difficult making them climb up the steep rocky steps that appeared throughout the trail. I was fine on the flat trail, even when it had a steep incline, but those boulder steps were killing me. As I continued to fall farther behind, my niece patiently adapted to my slowed down pace, we would come upon the group resting and I thought: Phew! A break! But, alas, just as we approached, they took off again. No break for us.
We continued along a very rocky section of the mountain, and honestly, the 'trail' was not a bit evident, thus the need for a guide! We again fell behind, and even though my niece scouted ahead for our group, they were long gone. I'm telling you, this guide needed to get somewhere quick! We ambled along, never another soul in sight, but the views were glorious.
Up the cliff a ways, we spotted our group and literally picked our way up, as there was no visible trail. This required climbing over many enormous boulders. Clearly, not the way they went, but the only route we could discern. We finally met up with them at a shepherd's hut jutting from the cliffside, with the most spectacular views of the sea. Our guide was serving fresh local tomatoes with cheese and olive oil, alongside pitchers of water and wine.
Our refreshing break was absolutely heavenly, including our break companion, the little sleeping pup. Apparently, the shepherd was out shepherding, and our guide was clearly a bit miffed that she had to do the snack service. She seemed a bit out of sorts then entire time. As our break ended and we headed back up the trail, we passed by the jolly shepherd, on his way back to his hut.
These little tomatoes tasted like fresh sunshine as they burst in our mouths. I've never had a better tomato in my life.
Our route back into Bomerano was much easier, and I was grateful to make it back in one piece. Exhausted, I sat on the bus back to Sorrento, feeling the exertion of the day, but with immense gratitude for being able to have such an incredible experience. Absolutely exhausting yet incredibly fulfilling. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat!
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